From dad to bad b - how New Balance became a cultural icon

New Balance, once synonymous with suburban dads mowing lawns in jorts, has managed one of the most remarkable brand transformations in recent memory.

This is the story of how the 'dad shoe' became the shoe—and what every marketer can learn from their journey.

Your dad’s fave shoe.

Before New Balance was gracing the feet of supermodels and sneakerheads, it was the go-to brand for comfort, functionality, and reliability.

The brand’s core audience? Middle-aged dads who valued arch support over aesthetic appeal. And you know what? It worked for them.

For literal decades, New Balance thrived in its lane, leaning into function over form while staying mostly off the radar of mainstream fashion.

But in a culture where trends change faster than you can say 'orthotics,' the dad shoe trope started to feel stale.

By the early 2010s, New Balance wasn’t just unfashionable—it was a meme, lumped into the same category as fanny packs and Crocs (pre-reinvention). For many brands, this would have been the kiss of death. But for New Balance, it was just the beginning of a new chapter.

So, how do you successfully pivot something so clinically uncool? You lean into the joke.

Therein lies the brilliance of New Balance’s rebrand. It wasn’t about running away from its 'dad shoe' rep. It was about embracing it.

When the likes of Emrata, Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner started unironically rocking the latest version of the original 990 silhouette – the OG dad shoe - in 2019, the brand released a campaign paying homage to the long-lasting legacy of the shoe.

The tagline read: 'Worn by supermodels in London and dads in Ohio.'

A single sentence perfectly summed up their strategy: own the stereotype, but make it aspirational.

This self-aware humour was as clever as it was cultural.

By positioning themselves as the ironic-yet-iconic sneaker, New Balance tapped into the zeitgeist of nostalgia, normcore, and the rise of irony in fashion. The message was clear: We know who we are, and we’re proud of it.

Collaborations with cultural tastemakers like JJJJound, Teddy Santis, and Aimé Leon Dore brought New Balance into the high-fashion world. Limited-edition drops created the kind of hype once reserved for Jordans and Yeezys.

Suddenly, the 990s were status symbols.

The formula for reinvention.

So, how the heck did NB pull this off? Three key moves:

1. Leveraging the ironic appeal: The brand leaned into the uncool reputation with a wink, making their authenticity feel fresh.

2. Playing the long game: This was no quick fix. The brand's resurgence was years in the making, with careful partnerships, collabs and campaigns, all coming to a head at the perfect amalgamation of irony and nostalgia.

3. Marrying function with fashion: Despite playing the underdog for decades, NB never sacrificed what they originally stood for. They proved you don’t have to trade comfort for style; you can have both.

That’s a lesson in how to stay true to your roots while evolving to meet cultural demands.

But there’s also a wider cultural shift happening here, one towards loving the unlovable.

NB’s comeback is part of this shift: the cultural rehabilitation of the uncool. Think about it—Uggs, Crocs, Birkenstocks, mom jeans, even mullets. These are all things we once mocked, only to embrace them later with open arms.

Why?

Because today’s consumers love authenticity (as we know, lol.) There’s something inherently satisfying about taking a practical, unpretentious thing and turning it into a style statement. It’s like saying, 'We’re so cool, we can make anything cool.'

At the same time, irony has become a major cultural currency. When brands like New Balance poke fun at themselves, it humanises them. It’s not just a shoe anymore—it’s a vibe, a flex, a reclamation of what’s 'ordinary.'

This story is not only a rebranding success. It's also a lesson in cultural timing and self-awareness.

So, what can we learn from New Balance?

Embrace the uncool: Don’t run from your brand’s quirks; lean into them. What makes you different will always be your greatest asset.

Play with irony: Self-deprecating humour can go a long way in reshaping perception. Authenticity doesn’t mean taking yourself too seriously.

Collab with care: Partnering with the right people—those who align with your ethos—can elevate your brand without feeling forced.

Know the zeitgeist: Nostalgia, irony, and authenticity are trending now, but the cultural winds change quickly. Stay attuned to what your audience values.

And, what does this mean for the future of branding?

The rise of NB teaches us one very important lesson: no brand is ever truly uncool.

It’s all about timing, storytelling and how well you understand your audience. The thing about perception is that it’s malleable. With the right moves, even the most unfashionable product can become an icon.

The real takeaway? In a world obsessed with chasing trends, there’s power in staying true to who you are. Because sometimes, the coolest thing you can do is embrace what everyone else is running from.

-Sophie, Writer